Angel’s Share, a Master Cooper, and other tales from Napa

We’ve been blessed to visit Napa several times in the past, but this week-long visit gave us the opportunity to explore more than ever before. Wine tasting was at the heart of our activities, but we also snuck in a round of golf, a kayak run on the Napa River, and a bike ride from Napa to Yountville.

We made some new friends and had visits with one of my dear writing friends along the way.

Most of all, we learned so much about wine-making and wine-makers during our visit.

Angel’s Share

Our first tasting was at Rombauer Wines, just north of Napa in St. Helena. We chose the vineyard because of its beautiful family history, its reputation for producing yummy Chardonnays, and the awesome hilltop setting. Carrie was our server and did a fabulous job teaching us about the wines they produce.

As our curiosity intrigued Carrie, she was kind enough to give us a tour of their wine caves. While there, I noted a barrel presumably seeping red wine onto the outside of the French Oak barrel. Carrie offered that as the oak barrels are porous, that through the oxidation process, the tannins from the stems, seeds and the grapes seep out of the barrels.

Way back in the day, when cellar masters discovered the product disappearing from barrels, they determined that angels were enjoying their share from heaven. The term, “la part des anges”  or “angels share” refers to the missing portion from the barrels. Wine makers will regularly check their barrels, from a few days to a few weeks, and fill the barrel from the top bung hole to replace the Angel’s Share.

Even the golf courses have wine-related names!

We had a lovely round at Eagle’s Vine Golf.  There was a foursome of younger guys in front of us, who were kind enough to let us through on the first par 3. I came within 5 inches of a hole-in-one, as they cheered the ball toward the cup. I nearly beat Brad straight up on the front side, but he found his stride on the back. Really fun round.

Off the beaten path…or waterfront

We finally got back out on our kayaks on this segment of our travels. We were directed to Fagan Marsh on the Napa River. A great site for bird watching, we took in hawks, yellow-rumped Warblers, ducks, and egrets. We maneuvered through the marsh until the natural channel got us caught up in the reeds. We got kind of messy in the process.

Photo credit: cricketsblog

Cheers to old friends and new trails

I met author Nancy Hudgins a number of years ago at a Highlights writing workshop. We’ve kept in touch ever since, visiting each other twice in our hometowns. Here we are celebrating the sale of her first book, a biography of famed children’s book editor Ursula Nordstrom. I’m so proud of Nancy! Brad, Luna and I enjoyed lots of time with Nancy and her little pup, Buddy. (Who is cuddled on her lap in the photo.)

Brad and I made it back to Frank Family wines again on this trip. Yummy reds and beautiful setting for the afternoon wine tasting. We took a nap after.

Tempting as it was, we didn’t stop at any of the wineries along the route of our 12 mile bike ride on the Vine Trail, from Kennedy Park to Yountville.

Fun fact: George C. Yount planted the first grapevines in Napa Valley. Way back in 1839.

A Master Cooper and Sharing Angels

Ahh…the beauty of Facebook. A college friend of Brad’s encouraged us to check out Caldwell Vineyard.

We’re so grateful for the recommendation.

What started as a private tasting in the wine caves turned into a personal sharing of our own angel stories with Ramiro, the Master Cooper.

Ramiro makes all 350 barrels for the vineyard. Most vineyards buy their barrels from a cooperage. We were mesmerized by Ramiro’s tales of growing up in the region, his passion for, and dreams of playing soccer professionally, then fate (and his nose…very important for toasting the barrels just right!) intervened and he became one of only several dozen master coopers in the world. Here’s a great article on Ramiro.

Caldwell’s website header reads, “For us, it’s personal.”

Our experience with Ramiro became quite personal and spiritual as we shared our mutual losses. It was an incredible “Angel Share” experience.

And the wine was pretty incredible too.

Cheers, Napa.

We can’t wait to get back.

At Caldwell Vineyards Wine Caves Tasting, Caldwell barrel handmade by Ramiro, master cooper, view from the Caldwell hilltop. Breathtaking experience and views.

Eureka! We Found Giants!

We discovered Giants in nature, art, architecture and industry in our adventures through Northern California.

Nature’s Giants

We had a relatively beautiful day weather-wise to venture into the land of the Redwoods. I loved driving the Avenue of the Giants, a tight, slightly 31-mile drive that parallels Highway 101 just south of where we were staying in Fortuna, California.

We hiked the Drury-Chaney Loop trail fairly early on in the drive. At the start of the trail, we met a woman who lost her wallet somewhere on the trail. I tried to keep my eyes on the trail, which helped with the appreciation of the gorgeous sorrel the blanketed the ground. But, when amongst these giants, all you can do is look up. And up.

I told Brad that I kept expecting dinosaurs to come charging through the forests, as they used to do. More than a hundred million years ago, redwood forests redwood forests dominated the Northern Hemisphere.

We were in awe at the fallen giants, their root structures small compared to the massive size of the trees. We were rather curious as to how this was possible. Then lo and behold, we came upon a sign explaining how the redwoods balance themselves out.

Our Jeep duck points the way through the Redwood Forest. Standing next to a fallen giant, and explanation of the science of the root structure.

Our hike was peaceful. We only  saw one other couple during our time on the trail, and a handful of foresters who were reinforcing some of the trails to meet ADA standards.

The floor of the forest was beautiful, with ferns and edible sorrel. Redwoods are resistant to insects, disease and fires. New trees sprout from the roots of old trees. Brad marveled at the massive width of the giants.

This is the Shrine drive-thru tree along the Avenue of the Giants. The height restriction was 7’7″…our kayaks were on top of the Jeep, so we wouldn’t have made it through. As much as I loved the overall drive, I’m not sure I would have come out from under the tree without a few scrapes.

Eureka Architecture

The next day we spent the afternoon in Eureka. As was so much of the west, Eureka (Greek for “I have found it!) was settled by those chasing dreams during the Gold Rush. We loved walking around the downtown area, which has over 20 building in the National Historic Registry.

Driving around Eureka we discovered the amazing diversity of the well-preserved homes in the city, from Tudors, to craftsmen and bungalows.

At the far edge of town is the Carson Mansion, built in 1884 by employees of lumber magnate William Carson. It is considered the most-photographed Victorian mansion in California, possibly the country. It is a private club primarily to preserve the iconic structure.

The Carson mansion

The Artist and the Automotive Enthusiast

While strolling the streets of downtown Eureka, we discovered this beautiful storefront display of the work of Romano Gabriel. To learn more about this Italian artist who made Eureka his home, click here.

Then, we stumbled into Carl’s Car World, a unique collection of automotive memorabilia created by Carl Schneider, a car racer, enthusiast and influencer in the automotive world. We loved learning about early automotive history, even seeing original drawings by Ferdinand Porsche.

#CarlsCarWorld #packard #bugatti #vw #Classiccars #Mercedesbenz #artistoninstagram #classiccar

And of course, a bookstore

I loved finding a perfect gift for a friend amongst the stacks at the adorable Eureka Books.

It was the perfect ending to a week filled with new discoveries.

E

Elemental

The elements come into play on our travels, whether motoring from one locale to another, or while we are camped out for any period of time.

Such has been the case in traversing from Idaho to Oregon, and then from our stop in Bend to our destination along the coast, Coos Bay.

Our timing on both legs couldn’t have been better. We missed storms moving into Idaho after we left, and we jumped ahead of storms moving through the mountains outside of Bend as we made our way to the ocean.

Idaho Ready: What you need to know about the chain up law ...How to put tire chains on a semi-truckO

Photo credit: Idaho Transportation Department and Schneider Truck website

In the mountains, one is always at risk of snow and ice. The signs along the way, noting “Chains Required When Flashing” are a bit disconcerting. Chains help vehicles grab the ice and snow for traction. Kind of like crampons for huge trucks. Fortunately we never had the warning flashing lights, for we didn’t invest in chains.

We would have had to turn back.

On our travels from Bend to Coos Bay, Route 58 between Route 97 and State Highway 5 was an absolutely beautiful trek, with Odell Lake and the Willamette River running alongside. Willamette Pass was a little nerve-wracking, with a decent amount of snow on the ground. But the roads were clear and dry.

Here is a glimpse at how the elements came into play on our adventures in Oregon…

Fire

Any opportunity to jump into our kayaks and paddle is a blessing, and such was the case in Bend. The kind folks at the outfitter, Tumalo Creek, directed us to a nice launching dock on the Deschutes River. They instructed us to paddle our way a couple of miles up river, then enjoy the current on the way back.

So what does a fun paddle on the Deschutes have to do with fire? In 1990, the Awbrey Hall Fire burned along the western flank of the city, jumping three major highways and destroying 22 homes and 3500 acres. Had we been able to continue paddling up river, we would have been near the Deschutes River Woods division that suffered the most damage.

We had a lovely evening catching up with a high school friend of Brad’s, Eric Davenport and his wife, Lynn. We visited them over ten years ago while traveling through Bend with our kids. The years dropped away as we hiked their property with Eric. In the distance, the view was hazy, from prescribed fires set to manage the forests. The photo below is from a Facebook page keeping residents advised of both controlled burns and wildfires.

After the hike we enjoyed a delicious dinner prepared by Eric, then warmed by their Russian fireplace in the center of their beautiful open family room/kitchen. The fireplace is highly efficient and beautiful. I sat on the hearth for a bit…it was quite toasty. The fun evening ended entirely too soon, but we were leaving early the next morning for Coos Bay.

Air

We’ve been blessed to be hunkering down at the Sun Outdoors Campground in Coos Bay. Our site is just 50 yards from the beach and ocean. It has rained the entire time we’ve been here, and the winds have been a gusting! The motorhome is shaking as I’m writing this, the winds howling up to 45 miles an hour.

We haven’t let the stationery front stop our fun…enjoying hikes on the beach in the mornings with Luna, and exploring the towns and coast over the last few days. We even took in a fun “Wine Walk” sponsored by the local Rotary Club in Coos Bay.

But, oh that wind. And Rain! This photo doesn’t nearly capture how angry the elements seem to be…the air howling, the waves crashing, the sand and rain drops pelting our skin. But hey, it could be snowing, right?

Water 

I never tire of being by water. The ocean, especially in storms, takes water to a whole different level. We marveled at a brave paddle boarder navigating the waves in a cove near our campground. The waves crashing against rocks at Cape Arago State Park at the tail-end of Route 540 were mesmerizing.

But, water can be deadly. We learned about King Tides, which occur along the Oregon coast when the Earth, sun, and moon are all aligned. The huge tidal waves occur about once a month…we just missed them when we arrived. A woman we met on the beach intrigued us with stories of people being swept out to sea from king tides. Note to self…don’t turn your back on the water during king tides. Yikes.

Earth

From water to earth…we were fascinated by the huge Bull Kelp that washed up on the beach near the campground. We could see the “holdfasts” that attach to submerged rocks out in the ocean. They reminded me of characters in the Pirates of the Caribbean! The stranded jelly fish always make me a bit sad…and we saw our fair share on the beach as a result of the rollicking tides. Luna was wise to avoid them on our beach hikes.

The last picture, of the Stellar, or Northern Sea Lions hanging out on the rock and in the waters along the coast of Cape Arango State Park, has a story. Or rather, what you don’t see in the picture offers story.

The tide was coming in as we watched the sea lions, captivated by their defiance of the force of water. The sea creatures were barking and crying away…trying to avoid losing their position on the rock to the hundreds waiting in the water. I thought it was a territorial thing, until I looked to where they kept casting their gaze.

There, on a rock below them, still, motionless was another Stellar sea lion. This creature did not move for the fifteen minutes we stood and watched. But the other sea lions did, seemingly agitated, moving back and forth on that rock, looking to the sea, then back to their newly departed friend.

Through my experiences and research in the past, I knew in my heart what was going on.

I looked up at Brad with tears in my eyes and said, “I think they are grieving.”

Brad squeezed my hand and gave me a big hug.

A touching end to adventures that provided us with many goosebump moments among the elements.

 

Homeful

Home*ful: adjective: having a place to live, not homeless. 2. enjoying time together in a home.

This word is not quite an official entry in any dictionary, but it suits our experiences in Salt Lake City as well as our visit with family in Caldwell, Idaho.

I’ll start with the beginnings of our adventures in the Mormon holy land. Brad and I went out to dinner at an awesome restaurant in downtown, just ten minutes from our campground. Zest Kitchen and Bar was an excellent choice, all-organic and gluten free. Yum. The tables were quite close to one another, and Brad and I began a conversation with four ladies sitting next to us. We asked the group what they might recommend to do in the area.

Their response? Go to Park City.

As a former employee of the Toledo Convention and Visitors Bureau, it made me sad that a resident of any given city suggests that there was so little to do in their hometown, that they would recommend driving an hour away for entertainment.

It made me reflect on what home really means. And how one should have pride in their hometown.

And it made us bound and determined to discover the best of this city, despite the recommendation to go elsewhere. Here is what we discovered about the area, our home for six days.

The Great Salt Lake

We had an amazing time kayaking on the largest salt lake in the western hemisphere. The air temperature was maybe 50 degrees. I’m not sure what the water temperature was, and glad we didn’t find out. We had the lake to ourselves, as we paddled from the marina at the Great Salt Lake State Park out into the open waters. We noticed that kayaking on the water felt more buoyant due to the lake’s composition.

We saw brine shrimp in the lake, which are harvested from October 1st through January 31st. This harvest industry provides anywhere from ten to fifty million dollars to the area. To learn more about the harvests, look here.

The Tabernacle Choir

I still get chills thinking about our experience in seeing the Tabernacle Choir live, on a chilly, damp Sunday morning. I’d done my research before our visit, and learned that although you can take in organ recital rehearsals and performances throughout the week, the choir concerts are on Sunday mornings. Doors open at 8:30, doors close at 9:15, thirty-minute performance happens at 9:30. Parking is free in downtown on Sundays. Perfect.

When we arrived,  several hospitable young Mormon girls greeted and directed us to the balcony for the best acoustics. A staff photographer approached us during the rehearsal session and informed us that we had chosen the absolutely best seats.

The Tabernacle reminds me of something right out of the Wizard of Oz, expecting the wizard to appear from behind the huge pipe organ at any minute. The chorus of 360 voices was indescribable. All of the songs, and the brief message, were about gratitude. Check out the performance of Music & The Spoken Word.

Family Search

So, while in the Tabernacle, a kind Mormon woman reached out to me and we spoke of our desire to learn more about the city. She didn’t recommend we go to Park City. She suggested we visit the Family Search Library and conduct genealogy research. A young man named Kyle helped me navigate the site, and was incredibly empathetic as I included information on loved ones I’ve lost. Tears came in both our eyes as I included our daughter Claire, my siblings Karen and Kevin, my parents, my beloved Aunt Carol and my special Uncle Leon.

I felt a great sense of home as I discovered relatives I never knew about. I’d highly recommend creating your own account online and learning more about your ancestry.

Ensign Peak 

Two days after arriving in the area, Brigham Young and other leaders hiked up to this peak and envisioned the layout of the city. The drive up steep hills to the peak was a treat, the Capitol Building looming at the top. We timed our visit nearly perfectly, taking in the sunset and afterglow.

We met a young woman, Krista, along with her adorable little husky, Balto at the top. A graduate of The Ohio State University, we learned she moved to California after graduation, working remotely. After sharing common travel experiences, she proclaimed that she felt she should have been born into our family, with our wanderlust.

We’ve since connected on Instagram, and I have a feeling this won’t be the last we see of this young traveler.

Park City

Ok, so we figured we had to check Park City out. Unfortunately, the trail we intended to hike on was closed for the season. The holiday skiers had little snow. And the shops were overpriced, with local stores getting pushed out by chains. But, it was quaint, and the Wasatch Mountains were beautiful.

Still not a highlight I would recommend if I lived in Salt Lake City. Just sayin’.

Jordan River Trail

Okay, so this is where we experienced the polar opposite of Homeful.

The Jordan River Trail apparently offers over 60 miles of paved trails in Salt Lake City and beyond. We only witnessed a mile or so, as we attempted to make our way to a dog park to let Luna off-leashWhere we intended to walk was blocked off, due to a number of homeless people. It broke my heart to see the squalor, the trash, the “homes” made out of tarps, grocery carts, anything to provide shelter. More so, it hurt to see young men, unable to even look me in the face, strung out, just waiting for their next fix. Or the woman, who when we politely excused ourselves to pass her on the sidewalk, called out to us as we passed, “Sorry, you get a little slower after 60.”

If she only knew.

Out of respect, I didn’t take any pictures of those we saw in the parks, the streets. But the memories haunt me.

I can’t even imagine not having a home.

Caldwell, Idaho

So, after feeling a little lost among the homeless, we felt totally embraced by Brad’s stepbrother Michael, and his fiancée, Melissa, at their home in Caldwell, Idaho.

We were blessed to be included in their Friendsgiving celebration. We loved meeting their variety of friends, and enjoyed lively conversations. Michael roasted/smoked the turkey on the outside grill, and we all contributed side dishes to the feast. Their dogs Lucy and McKeever added to the fun throughout the weekend.

We took in a few of the Snake River Valley wineries in the area, including Hat Ranch, Huston, and Koenig.

Friday evening we walked around downtown Caldwell, taking in their wonderful holiday light display along Indian Creek, followed by a wonderful dinner at Grit restaurant.

Our travels in Salt Lake City and Idaho left us feeling grateful…for new adventures, family, new friends and most of all, HOME.

 

Golden Opportunities

Life is too short, and any chance to spend time with our kids is special. We intentionally landed in the Denver area this past week to be with our son, Ian and his partner, Adam to explore and celebrate Ian’s 30th birthday. It was oh so much fun, and went by all too quickly.

Golden and Clear Creek

Brad and I landed in Golden, staying at the Clear Creek RV park, a quaint campground along the banks of Clear Creek right in our back yard. The small park is run by the City of Golden, and sits at the dead-end of 10th Street, an easy half-mile walk to the adorable town of Golden, and the infamous Coors Brewing Company.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have the time to take the brewery tour or even take in the Holidaily Brewing Company (all gluten-free for those of us intolerant!) during our visit. Next time.

The photo below is of the walking/biking path that surrounds and winds through Golden. The path offers 24 miles of quiet beauty, from prairie grasslands to mountain views. Much of the path winds along Clear Creek. We spotted the Bighorn sheep off of Welch Ditch trail, a short hike that is primarily a climbers access point.

Ian and Adam joined us for dinner at the Sherpa House in Golden. Word of warning: medium Masala is hot!

Denver

Our adventures in Denver included two places Ian had yet to visit, and a deli that is a regular-go-to.

Margaret Brown Home

When I discovered that Margaret Brown, otherwise known as The Unsinkable Molly Brown, and her husband, J.J. bought and lived in this magnificent home in downtown Denver, I just had to go. Although Margaret is famous for having survived the Titanic sinking, her life story is filled with many chapters of adventure and experiences as a suffragist, philanthropist, and actress. It was a thrill to explore their family home, together, as a family.

The self-guided tour was interesting, but the museum’s website is a researcher’s dream. I loved this quote I found, which I think sums up Margaret’s life and my personal philosophy perfectly:

“I am a daughter of adventure. This means I never experience a dull moment and must be prepared for any eventuality. I never know when I may go up in an airplane and come down with a crash, or go motoring and climb a pole, or go off for a walk in the twilight and return all mussed up in an ambulance. That’s my arc, as the astrologers would say. It’s a good one too, for a person who had rather make a snap-out than a fade-out of life.”

-Margaret Brown, aka The Unsinkable Molly Brown, as told to the Denver Post, August 9, 1923

Ian, Brad and Adam in front of the Margaret Brown home, one of several Blackamoor sculptures in the home, with a note about the museum’s attempt to discern how to respectfully display and provide historical context to the pieces. Check out this informative article on this art here.

Levin Deli

When I had the opportunity to join Ian and Adam for lunch while in Denver back in April, they treated me to the Levin Deli, Wine Bar and Bakery. The restaurant features delicious deli sandwiches, including gluten-free options for me. It was so fun to go back again and share this yummy spot with Brad too!

History Colorado Center

We had a great time exploring the beautiful History Colorado Center, which sadly, put the Ohio History Center to shame. Beautiful and informative displays and exhibitions, including a heart-wrenching account of the Sand Creek Massacre.

In 2000, letters were discovered in Denver, written by Captain Silas Soule, which reflected his refusal to participate in the massacre. The images brought forth in his writing brought tears, right on the heels of the Hamas terrorist acts in Israel.

On a lighter note, the exhibit, Winter Warriors, shared the stories of the 10th Mountain Division of World War II. The displays include touching mementos and photographs gifted to the museum from family members of the elite skiing veterans.

I was reminded of Ski Soldier: A World War II Biography, written by our Claire’s Day friend, Louise Borden. The story shares the account of Pete Siebert, who joined the 10th Mountain Division when he was just 18. Pete came back to the States severely wounded and questioning whether he would ever ski again. With the help of his fellow ski soldiers, Pete went on to not only hit the slopes again, but founded the ski resort in Vail.

Guanella Pass and Georgetown

Go back to the quote from Margaret Brown earlier in this post, and you’ll get a sense of what I was feeling as I drove the 22-mile Guanella Pass southwest of Denver. I was a little anxious about driving the pass, especially with the light snow that fell overnight. It didn’t help that several vehicles turned around right at the beginning, daunted by the steep roadway. But, I carried on as captain of this adventure, and our Jeep Grand Cherokee handled the tight curves and high embankments like a charm. I drove up and back (and up and back again) on the switchbacks, over the 11,669 pass to amazing views of Mount Blue Sky and Mount Bierstadt.  The photo below is only half way up.

I was intrigued by the Historical Marker noting the former presence of the McLellan Opera House. I love the inscription on the marker…”During the years 1869-1892, the great and the near-great of the theatrical world performed here. Georgetown was a two-night stand on both the silver and gold circuits which played the Colorado mining camps.”
Can you imagine taking in a show at the Opera House back in the day?
We wrapped our time together by enjoying an early birthday-dinner at 240 Union in Lakewood, halfway in-between Golden and Denver.  At the end of the dinner, staff surprised Ian with a slice of a birthday treat. It was icing on the cake, (sorry!) to a wonderful and memorable visit.

Alright, Alright, Alright

My youngest brother, Gordie, recommended we listen to Matthew McConaughey’s memoir, Greenlights on our travels. I was a bit hesitant, as I thought the actor was rather self-absorbed. I mean, what could I learn from a man who made a name for himself running on beaches and showing off his six-pack abs?

Plenty.

The timing was perfect to listen to the story, narrated by none other than Matthew himself. (We came to know each other on a first-name basis through the journey.)

Brad and I had quite a few road hours on our travels from Nashville and onto Branson. Throw in a little unplanned side trip to Red Bay, Alabama for a quick repair, and the roughly 6 1/2 hour audiobook helped pass the miles.

Our trip to Red Bay required an overnight stay where we were not intending to be. Matthew would summarize this situation by saying, “Greenlights.” In other words, green lights mean go. But sometimes in life, the green lights might change on us, causing us to redirect. And as life plays out, we end up with a Greenlight we weren’t expecting. Such was the case with our Harvest Hosts overnight stop at a little farm and orchard along the way. I’ve never camped in such a quiet, peaceful spot. Until the neighboring rooster woke us up early the next morning.

“The problems we face today eventually turn into blessings in the rearview mirror of life,” Matthew offered.

Greenlight.

Our view at Blessed Bounty orchard, an unexpected overnight.

I was surprised to learn that Matthew spent several years traversing in a van and Airstream trailer that he customized. He named the trailer Canoe, in honor of his visit to the Squamish Nation reservation in Vancouver. The tribe gave him a handmade oar, a symbol of the tribe.

Matthew said, “The oar guides the canoe, guides you through life—so I named the Airstream the Canoe. I mean, the highways are like riverways, they’re just concrete.” 

Our oar was guiding us to a place that was on both of our radars for some time; Branson, Missouri.

Branson

We stayed the week at Table Rock State Park, just fifteen minutes from the city of Branson. The lake is absolutely gorgeous, with a huge marina and a several-mile hiking trail around the perimeter. Over the weekend, a huge Bass Fishing Tournament, sponsored by Toyota happened on the lake. We’d wake up in the morning with the sounds of the National Anthem being sung to send the fishermen off for the day, and hear the announcements of the daily divisional winners in the evening. Top prize? $200,000!

The marina at Table Rock State Park, the Showboat Branson Belle and sunset at the park.

We wanted to take in a show, and at the recommendation of a friend, went to see Reza, an illusionist. Reza’s huge acts were amazing, but his smaller tricks were simply mind-boggling. I would have gotten a picture of him, but he kept disappearing.

Where did Reza go?

A huge bonus was catching up with a dear high school friend. Hannah Spotts and her husband Mike, who joined us for dinner at the campground. It was such a fun and lovely evening. Hannah recommended we visit one of her favorite places in the area…

Dogwood Canyon

Johnny Morris, owner of Bass Pro Shops and Cabela’s founded this extraordinary 10,000 acre conservation area with hiking and biking trails, trout fishing, and horseback riding. Tickets to the tram are extra, but the bonus is at the top. We enjoyed our close encounters with the herd of bison, including a rare White American Bison.

Brad and I also had a blast playing the Mountain Top 9-hole golf course, and taking in lunch at Arnie’s Barn afterwards. My drink of choice? An Arnold Palmer, of course.

Salina

Salina, Kansas was definitely a Greenlight. We stayed/played at the Salina Municipal Golf Course, which is one of the nicest muni golf courses we’ve ever played. Luna had a blast joining us during the round, and was quite chill afterwards while we had dinner on the patio at Ya Yas.  We took a nice stroll through the surprising downtown. Fun!

Rafter W Ranch

Our last stop before hitting Denver was yet another Harvest Hosts site…Rafter W. Ranch. We camped out in their field, away from their grass-fed cattle, and enjoyed hiking the property. We picked up some steaks before we left the next morning, on to our next adventures.

We finished listening to the audiobook, and could relate to this quote from Greenlights.

“We cannot fully appreciate the light without the shadows. We have to be thrown off balance to find our footing. It’s better to jump than fall. And here I am.”

Thank you, Matthew for your insights, your stories, your inspiration. We aspire to Just Keep Livin‘.

And we’re doing Alright, Alright, Alright.

 

October Whirlwind

I’m struggling with how to start this post, because it doesn’t seem possible that we left Toledo just a month ago. Especially since I uploaded pictures from our various adventures first, and then faced with the task of sharing the narrative. We’ve had so many different experiences already, and I hope to do them all justice!

Here’s our home on wheels…complete with Jeep loaded with golf clubs, bikes and kayaks!

THE WEDDING THAT STARTED IT ALL

My niece, Hannah Zeigler and her fiancé, Zach Early, chose to get married on Saturday, October 7 on Zach’s family’s farm in Buchanan, Virginia. It was a beautiful, crisp fall day as we all gathered to witness their heartfelt vows during the ceremony.  I was especially touched by the photos of both family members who are no longer with us physically, as well as wedding pictures from both sides of the family. From the quaint, winding drive to the farm, to wrapping the night under the stars (and bubbles!), surrounded by our kids and extended family, it was a special celebration to remember. Congrats to Hannah and Zach!

The two newest brides in the family…our daughter, Kyle and goddaughter, Hannah.

With Brad, Kyle, Ian and his partner Adam, huddling together in the chilly fall air.

FAMILY TIME AT THE RUBINI FARM

It was a great decision to invite the Zeigler clan to the Rubini family farm in Tryon, North Carolina for the week following the wedding. There was just too little time with my brothers and their families while we were in Virginia. Sadly, my niece Wendy and great-niece Isabelle and brother Greg and sister-in-law Lisa were not able to join us. They were missed during our time together. The week was filled with hikes on the property, a drive up into the mountains, several evenings sharing stories around the firepit, shopping trips into nearby Hendersonville and Landrum, and wrapped with a fun evening at Mountain Brook Vineyards.

The newest family member, little McKenzie Claire (daughter of niece Shellie and her husband, Michael) was the hit of the week. We all took turns making dinner, played Rumikub and cards, and had a blast playing Heads Up after a fun dinner of fajitas and margaritas. This is one fun gang to hang with. Next time we’ll have to bring the water guns!

On White Oak Mountain, which can be seen from the family farm. We’ve had many family picnics at the top!

With the whole damn-fam (missing Adam and Gordie’s wife Debbie who left for work duties) at the winery.

Ian playing with McKenzie while niece Liz and her husband Nick look on. Fabulous sunsets!

Week number two of family brought Brad’s sisters Gail and Karla, along with his mom, Lynn and step-brother Michael and his fiancée, Melissa to the family home. Much of our time was spent close to home, playing Rumikub, (a game Lynn introduced us to years ago and now a family favorite), and enjoying all the amenities, including hot tub, sauna and hiking trails to a waterfall. It’s a perfect place for family gatherings, and is available to rent. Check it out here.

Speaking of family homes, after a yummy lunch at Burnt Shirt Vineyards (be sure to check out the link, the view of Chimney Rock from the patio is amazing!), Karla, Brad, Michael, Melissa, and I traveled to the Biltmore estate. Preserved by the Vanderbilt family, the audio tour offers great insights into what life was like back at the turn of the century. It was our third visit, and every time, I wish I had more time to take in the estate, the gardens, the winery. A bonus was a nice lunch at the Tryon Equestrian Center with Lynn and Melissa, both horsewomen. There was a jumping competition over the weekend, and we enjoyed witnessing extraordinary horsemanship after lunch.

Enjoying lunch at the Burnt Shirt Vineyard restaurant in Chimney Rock.

The beautiful reception room at the Biltmore.

Great shot of the Rubini ladies and the mountain view from the farm.

Sunset and coffee on our last morning.

NASHVILLE: I’M A LITTLE BIT COUNTRY AND A LITTLE BIT OF ROCK N’ ROLL

Brad and I had both been to Nashville before, but never together. We enjoyed staying several nights just outside of town at a Harvest Host family’s property. This is a great program that allows RV camping at host sites including golf courses, breweries, wineries and private property. Generally there are no utilities available, so visitors “boondock” or stay without water, electric or sewer. We’ve really enjoyed our stays and it’s been a convenient option for overnights on the way to another destination.

We discovered Nashville is dog-friendly, so ventured down Broadway Street, enjoying all the different country bands belting out their tunes. We had a beverage at The Stage on Broadway and then some barbecue at Jack’s. Luna was welcomed and seemed to enjoy the experience. While downtown, Brad noticed that there were crowd-control stanchions outside the Bridgestone Arena. When we discovered that Queen with Adam Lambert was playing, Brad went into the box office to see about getting tickets to that night’s show. There was a man walking around outside the box office too, I figured he was doing the same…waiting outside with his dog while his travel partner checked on tickets. On the contrary, he was trying to sell two tickets. Brad and the man connected, and the next thing you know, we were on the floor, seven seats away from the extended stage, watching legends Brian May and Roger Taylor, along with the incredible Adam Lambert, crank out Queens tunes from the ages. Unforgettable experience!

At The Stage, just before the concert…and Adam Lambert in all his glory during opening number, Radio Ga Ga.

HERMITAGE AND TULIP GROVE

Andrew Jackson’s estate wasn’t on our radar, but since it was just 15 minutes away from our campsite, we thought we’d be letting our grown kids down if we didn’t visit. (Back in the day we did a lot of history. A lot. Just ask them.) We were both quite impressed with the home, the grounds, the painstaking efforts to not only preserve, but to present Andrew Jackson’s life journey. Known as the “People’s President” because he was not born into wealth, we both admired some of his initiatives during his presidency…he extinguished national debt during his service.

We took the time to drive across the property to Tulip Grove, which was the home of Andrew Jackson’s wife, Rachel’s nephew. The home was closed for construction, but we made our way over to a variety of cemeteries near the mansion. Buried there are both Jackson family members, a plot dedicated to Confederate soldiers who stayed in the Confederate Retirement Home that used to be on the property. And then, off to the side, was a circle of rocks. Intrigued, I read how a number of unmarked graves of enslaved people were discovered by archeologists at an adjacent property. Click on the image to the far left to read about the touching, and appropriate tribute to the slaves.

A glimpse of Andrew Jackson’s mansion and the burial site tribute to enslaved people at Tulip Grove.

LAKE WAPPAPELLO

We left Nashville and drove four hours to People’s Creek at Lake Wappapello State Park. The campground was quiet, very quiet due to the weather over the weekend…rainy with a chance of meatballs. Seriously, it rained so hard at times I thought meatballs were descending on the coach! We walked in the rain, but would have preferred to kayak on the lake! Brad captured this picture on the morning we left, as the moon was setting and the sun was rising!

A sign of changes to come…from rainy to cold as we ventured into Branson, Missouri. Stay tuned!

It’s no longer all Greek to me

My husband Brad and I each have travel bucket lists. Years ago we wrote out 10 different locations we wanted to visit, without consulting with each other. Amazingly, (or maybe not as we’ve been together for nearly forty years) we both chose some of the same countries.

Greece was one of them.

We checked off this destination in style in honor of our 35th wedding anniversary.

After two weeks of taking in Athens, the Peloponnese, and the island of Santorini, the following quote from Socrates, the Greek philosopher sums up our Grecian experiences.

“True wisdom comes to each of us when we realize how little we understand about life, ourselves, and the world around us.” 

We came to understand rather quickly how little we knew about this country. Now that we are back stateside, perhaps this post will help enlighten you all a bit on all we experienced and learned.

(Note I have embedded links for those who wish to learn more.)

The Parthenon is an optical illusion

Brad and I with Acropolis and the Parthenon in the background. 

It is absolutely mind-boggling to understand that the Parthenon, sitting high on the Acropolis overlooking Athens, has virtually no right angles in this monument dedicated to Athena. The base is domed, not flat. Ictinus and Callicrates, the architects of the structure, along with Phidias, the sculptor, wanted us to believe that in viewing the wonder, we would see something balanced. They built the whole structure so that it is slightly curved in the middle as if rising to the gods. Some suggest that the facade of the Parthenon has the proportions of what is known as the Golden Ratio.

Did I mention the monument is 2500 years old?

I look forward to watching this PBS documentary on the Parthenon to learn more…

Cape Sounion has a storied past

Poseidon’s temple at Cape Sounion

Legend has it that Aegus, the king of Athens, leaped to his death at this strategic point, after thinking his son had died in battle against the Minotaur in Crete. Theseus, the son, was victorious, but he forgot to change the sails on the ship from black (indicating defeat and death) to white victorious flags. Upon seeing the black sails, Aegus gave up hope and dove into the water that is now known as the Aegean Sea.

The temple was built with the intent to appease Poseidon, the god of the seas, in the hopes it would calm his anger, and as a result, the waters around the cape. On the evening we visited, the water was calm. I think Poseidon was pleased.

The Ancient Theater in Epidauras would be an awesome concert site!

You can hear a pin drop from the center of the stage all the way to the top seats of this theater built in the late 4th century BC.  The annual Athens Epidaurus Festival still stages events at the 15,000-seat amphitheater annually.

I was checking out real estate in Nafplion.

Oh my goodness. I loved this little town on the Gulf of Argolis. The streets are quintessential European, with cobbled stones and bougainvillea creating a fragrant canopy. We enjoyed a cocktail looking out to Bourtzi Island, with the Venetian fortress rising from the water. The next morning we hiked the 999 steps up to the fortress in Palamidi overlooking the city. Note how it towers over the square in the picture.

The view from the top was incredible.

Thank goodness women are now allowed at the site of the original Olympics!

The archeological site of Olympia, where the original Olympic Games were held, is open to all. Not the case back in the day, when women were not allowed, according to our guide.  But, I have since come to understand that there was a separate festival to honor Hera, the wife of Zeus. Unmarried girls ran foot races! Imagine…the women’s marathon didn’t debut at the Olympics until 1984. That’s A.D.

Ruins in Olympia.                             The Krypte, the entrance to the Olympic stadium

The center of the world in ancient Greece…Delphi

View over the Theater and Stadium, where the Pythian Games were held every four years.

Legend has it that two giant eagles were released by Zeus one to the East, and one to the West. They met in Delphi, thus determining that this was the center point of the world. Delphi is the sanctuary of Apollo, the god of light, knowledge, and harmony. The ruins still reflect the gifts that were brought to the site in the hopes to win favor with Apollo. Think bribery in ancient Greek times.

Pythia, the oracle of Delphi, was quite an attraction at the time. People traveled from all over to get questions answered by this high priestess of Apollo. Whether you were a farmer wishing to know when to plant seeds, or when a child might come to a woman, the oracle provided answers. If it wasn’t the truth you were seeking, with a donation of a little more gold, you might receive the message you were hoping for. Images of the Wizard of Oz came to mind as our guide pointed out the openings where smoke would erupt from, surrounding the oracle in a cloak of mystery.

How do you say Meteora? How do you describe the indescribable?

So…these are the huge sandstone rock pillars that rose out of a valley about 60 million years ago. Hermit monks came here in the 9th and 10th centuries for isolation and to seek spiritual sanctuary.

Eventually, 24 monasteries were built on these rock formations. Only six remain today. We visited two of them. The Monastery of Saint Barbara (my patron saint from confirmation) and the Monastery of Agios Stephanos

To answer the question I posed, Meteora is pronounced Mee-Tee-Ah-Ruh.

I’m still trying to find the words to describe the indescribable.

Santorini has got a vibe.

We flew from Athens to Santorini for the last four nights of our trip. We hiked along the caldera from Oia to Fira. We enjoyed gyros and white Santorini wine. We visited the excavation site at Akitori. We hung out with 30-somethings on a sunset cruise who proclaimed we were “adorable” (isn’t that how one refers to old people?) and that we repped “couple’s goals.” We caught a sunrise and sun rays. We rehashed our journey…all 35-plus years of love, adventures, joys, sorrows, and everything in between.

Remembrances

This is one of thousands of roadside remembrances that dot the landscape in Greece. Tributes to those who died on the roadways of the country, it was a stark reminder of how fleeting this life can be. Our guide was kind to stop and explain the rituals involved in visiting one of the sites. Often there is a small oil-based lamp and a lighter contained within, along with loving notes and memories offered to the loved one who died there. We stopped at this shrine, lit the candle, and offered thoughts and prayers to the family of the deceased. As we walked away, I noticed a stray little purple wildflower at the base.

A final, lasting memory

Our kids both asked us when we returned what our favorite highlight was. It was this…a surprise note, accompanied by a nice bottle of Santorini white wine upon arrival at our hotel.

Yamas, my followers. To love. To your health. To our memories of a country we will always hold dear in our hearts.

To gaining wisdom through an understanding of this amazing world.

 

A blur and a blog

I’m back home, on solid ground, after being in constant motion for the last 5 ½ months in our
motorhome.

I’m sitting at my desk, covered with research books, book proposals, correspondence, works by
upcoming Claire’s Day authors and illustrators, sipping tea and reflecting on our adventures.

Here’s how the (approximate!) numbers stack up; 8,000 miles. Endless hikes with Luna.100
miles biking. 25 rounds of golf. 16 unique camping experiences.13 different bodies of water we
kayaked on. 7 States. 6 visits with friends. Only 4 days of rain. 3 weeks spent with family
members. 2 vet visits with Luna. 1 fun fishing expedition. 0 days laid up due to illness.

When I add up all of the adventures, it equals one hell of an experience.

We left in October when the leaves were just changing in Ohio. We came home in early April
with the trees blooming again. We left with an itinerary, a wish, and a prayer that we’d be safe on
our travels. We came home with unforgettable memories and a sense of accomplishment.

I mean, let’s face it. 5 ½ months spent together in the equivalent of 500 square feet would be a
challenge for anyone.

But we rose to the occasion and had a blast together. Sure, there were squabbles, but, as I offered to
Brad, other than the few times we wanted to throw each other out the window, we did great. I
feel so blessed to have a partner in every sense of the word.

The whole experience reflected how we deal with life. If there’s a problem, we work together to
figure it out. If one of us is feeling a bit down, we build each other up. If one of us is literally or
figuratively on the ledge, we guide each other to a safe place. If we get pissed at each other, we
let it out and let it go.

During our wedding vows 35 years ago, our minister encouraged us to laugh together, cry together, dance
together, make love together, to celebrate life together.

Together.

Here are a few shots of the blur of the last weeks on the road. We visited Blue Ridge,
Georgia, kayaked on the Toccoa River, shopped in the vibrant downtown, and stopped at the
little Serenberry winery for a tasting.

We had to maneuver around the many fishermen on the Toccoa.

I cracked up when seeing this memory again…I thought the hens were going to peck Brad’s toes as he put the kayaks back on the Jeep.

Sun. Wine. Cheers.

We snuck in a short visit with our daughter Kyle, our son-in-law Will, and their pup, Riggins.
Sadly, we didn’t sneak in any pictures of our hike, lunch at a brewery, and cookout at their house.

We wrapped up the journey as it began, stopping at the Rubini family home in Tryon, NC and a
quick overnight with friends Chris and Diane Evans in Lexington.

With Brad’s mom, Lynn, and sister Gail outside the Purple Onion in Saluda.

Thank you for following along on our journeys. These reflections in my blog have been fun for me to create, an outlet as I contemplate my next writing project.

We hope that perhaps our adventures have inspired you to get out there and discover our beautiful country.

Until next time…

 

Trip to the Mother Ship

Red Bay.

It sounds like a spice, or for those in Florida currently, a description of the coast lines getting hit with Red tide.

But, for every Tiffin motorhome owner, Red Bay means home. As in Sweet Alabama home.

In 1941, Alex Tiffin opened Tiffin Supply Company in this little town in northern Alabama. Throw a stick and you’re in neighboring Mississippi. The store carried any and every thing one needed to build a home. The family business expanded in 1965, with the purchase of a cotton gin. Alex’s son, Bob, took to the management of the operation like a fish takes to water.

Tiffin Supply provided materials to a business that came to town that manufactured recreational vehicles. The business folded and the Tiffin family seized the opportunity to hang another shingle with their name on it. Tiffin Motorhomes was established in 1972.

A 1984 Tiffin Allegro bus. Credit: Tiffin Motorhomes Facebook

Bob Tiffin summed up the competition and determined he wanted to build a better product, one that would stand the test of time. Other RVs were being made out of fiberglass and aluminum. Bob built his Tiffins on a much more durable steel chassis.

Tiffin started with making just two coaches a day. Now the company makes thousands of their hand-crafted, quality motorhomes every year. The company builds both gas as well as diesel fueled motorhomes, with models ranging from smaller 25-foot Class C vehicles, all the way up to 45 foot Class A motorhomes. Check out their models here.

Check out this beautiful 2023 Tiffin Zephyr. Photo credit: Tiffin website

Bob’s sons are now involved in the business, which was bought out by Thor Industries in 2020.The company has stated that they intend to remain in little Red Bay, Alabama, population 3200, give or take. Moving the company out of the area would be devastating to the community.

What Bob Tiffin began has exploded into a whole cottage industry, with service providers ranging from garages that do mechanical repairs, paint shops, detailing mobile vans, and even businesses that will custom make new cabinetry and update and replace furniture.

The Tiffin company has an excellent warranty program, so many travelers to the small town stay in graveled make-do parking lots and head out first thing every morning to get in line for warranty service. For those of us with vehicles that are out of warranty, Red Bay is still the place to come for repairs. Many of the off-shoot business owners and mechanics are former Tiffin employees. They know these coaches inside and out.

We had a whole laundry list of items that were beyond our mechanical abilities, and had absolutely no clue how to figure out which businesses in Red Bay to tackle the repairs. We read about owners who were spending several weeks scheduling their various appointments. We didn’t have that kind of time frame to work with. So, April Fowler of Happy Host RV Concierge to the rescue! April contacted service providers on our behalf, and stacked our appointments within a four-day window. Davidson RV did a fantastic job with most of our repairs, and had a comfortable, dog-friendly lounge for us to work from. The crew wanted to adopt Luna as their shop dog!

On day 2 of our repairs, we snuck in a tour of the main Tiffin manufacturing plant in Red Bay. No cameras were allowed, so I just had to stamp the imprint of the sight of all the workers diligently laboring at their jobs in my memory banks. From custom-made wood pieces for the cabinetry, to all the color-coded wires that make up the three miles of wiring in each coach, to seeing a unit nearly complete at the end of all the processes, it was amazing.

Our last stop involved getting our cracked windshield replaced. The repair entailed nearly 5 hours of work in the repair shop, then letting the seal settle overnight. I wish I took a picture of the huge garage from the inside of our coach. I can now add sleeping overnight in a service garage to my list of life experiences. We slept well, and were protected from the massive rain storm that pounded on their tin roof through the early morning hours.

We woke up early in time to open up the big garage doors and let our last provider in for a special touch to our coach.

The special paint job is a reflection of our love for our country and our shared joy in seeing all of her beauty.

With clear skies and bright sun filtering in from our new windshield, we left the Mother Ship.

One more step closer to home.

But before then…more adventures await in Blue Ridge, Georgia.